The dovecotes of Quercy: a short guide to reading the landscape

In Quercy, every drive brings its share of dovecotes. Attached to a farmhouse, perched on pillars in a meadow or crowned with a pointed roof, they belong to the landscape as much as vines and dry-stone walls. Yet these little towers tell a much bigger story. It is the story of farming that turned pigeon droppings into white gold for crops.

La colombine, un engrais précieux

Before the French Revolution, land in Quercy was divided into many small plots. Farms kept few livestock, so manure was scarce. Pigeon droppings, known as colombine, became a much sought-after fertiliser for vegetable gardens, hemp and vines.

Pigeons also provided meat and eggs. The dovecote was a status symbol too. Its size and the care taken over its construction reflected the family's wealth.

Un droit ouvert à tous les propriétaires

Elsewhere in France, the right to keep a dovecote was often reserved for the lord of the manor. In Quercy, any landowner could build one. The area of land simply had to match the number of pigeons housed. This freedom largely explains the exceptional number of dovecotes in the Lot and neighbouring Tarn-et-Garonne.

Petit guide pour les reconnaître

As you explore, you will spot several types:

• The dovecote on pillars: one of the oldest types, with some dating from the 16th century. It stands on stone pillars topped with flat caps, known as “capels”. These stopped rats and stone martens in their tracks.
• The tower dovecote: attached to the house or built into its façade, this is the most common type. Many were built in the 19th century.
• The mule's-foot dovecote: typical of Bas-Quercy, it has a single-pitch roof with steps that serve as take-off platforms.
• The gateway dovecote: a rarer type, built above a farm entrance or its covered gallery, known as a bolet.
• Simple nesting holes: small openings in a wall or dormer, often protected from rodents by a smooth band.

Look out for the details too. Projecting cornices, glazed terracotta tiles and zinc bands all formed barriers against predators. A terracotta finial often tops the roof, sometimes in the shape of a bird.

La pierre blanche du Quercy Blanc

In our part of the region, the limestone is pale and soft. Dovecotes here are often built from rubble stone with lime render. Some have timber frames filled with brick or earth-and-straw daub. The distinctive brightness of this stone gives the landscapes of Quercy Blanc their name.

Où les voir autour de Lauzerte

There is a fine example at Les Bordes, in Lauzerte. This dovecote stands on columns and is freely accessible all year round, according to the Quercy Sud-Ouest tourist office.

To see more on foot, follow the “Les moulins du Quercy Blanc” (PR2) walking route. This 21 km circular walk starts at the ramparts of Lauzerte. As early as the second stage, it passes a remarkable timber-framed dovecote from the 16th or 17th century. It has a hexagonal base on stone pillars, a brick-and-timber body, a roof lantern and a pigeon-shaped finial. The route continues towards the restored windmill at Pertenaïs and the chapel at Carcès, in the Séoune valley. A 2 km alternative section lets you shorten the walk.

Infos pratiques

• Pigeonnier des Bordes: Lauzerte (82110), free access all year round
• PR2 walk: starts at promenade de l'Éveillé, below the ramparts of Lauzerte, 21 km
• Respect the surroundings: most dovecotes are on private property; admire them from the path
• Information: Quercy Sud-Ouest tourist office, 05 63 94 63 46

Notre conseil

Autumn and winter are perfect for dovecote spotting. With less foliage, their outlines stand out more clearly across the fields. Head out in the late afternoon, when the low sun warms the white stone. Keep an eye on farmhouse roofs too. Their finials can hold some lovely surprises.

Louroca, in Barguelonne-en-Quercy, is surrounded by this dovecote-dotted countryside, close to Lauzerte.